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"This generation refuses to grow old and dress like their mothers," said Olga Conley, chief financial officer for J. Jill. Even companies that market to the young are moving up the age scale. Last year Gap started a new chain, Forth aqua & Towne, with clothes for women over 35. The children's clothier Gymboree started Janeville in 2004 to cater to older women; today it has aqua 16 stores. To accommodate the evolving tastes of women over 35, companies say they must introduce fashionable merchandise delicately, without turning aqua off core customers who depend on them for classic styles. Talbots learned its lesson in 1997 when the company strayed from its tailored look and tried short skirts and high slits. The company had its worst year ever, according to a spokeswoman, Margery Myers. "Our customer wants fashion, but fashion that fits her," said Arnold Zetcher, chief executive of Talbots.
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